![]() You can't get the dual voltages at the same time with most of the universal converters used backwards going from 120v to 220v like the goldsource unit above so many things will not run if they utilize both voltages at the same time. Good design practice would typically use a transformer inside the device to go from 220v to 120v and not pick up a hot and neutral but not all things built conform to proper design techniques. ![]() if it has no transformer of its own inside and uses a hot and neutral to arrive at 120v you will be dead in the water. you can have a 220v heater element with a 120v fan or light inside and the device can pick up the 120v power it needs off the 220v feed via a hot and neutral. our 220v system provides the ability for a device to have 220v as well as 120v circuitry at the same time. Įuropean 220v is arrived at very differently then we use in america. From one hot to the other you will have 240v. From any hot to the neutral you will get 120v. From one hot to the other hot you will get 240v. most are designed for European voltage configurations. There may be other issues as well if you use these universal travel voltage converters which can go from 120v to 220v or 220v to 120v. they cannot handle continuous duty applications where they are used for hours. Īlso converters are designed for very short term use like a hair dryer or electric tooth brush. Įxcept for very low current draw items you will easily overload the 120v side of things. ![]() the goldsource unit as an example has a #16 gauge cord and plug limiting the input power you can draw to about 8 or 9 amp on the 120v side and only 4 amp on the 220v side. when you convert from 120v to 220v for every amp you draw on the 220v side you draw 2 amps on the 120v side. įirst there are safety issues and you have to be very careful using these converters. Your device may not work with these universal converters for a few reasons. Many of these "electric fireplaces" that are 220v are designed to put out 4000 watts of heat and that is why they require not just a 220v plug but also appropriate circuit breaker and wiring to prevent dangerous overheating.įirst off converters are NOT transformers and there is a big difference between the two. Depending on how the light is generated this may or may not be feasible. If it is you could then bypass the 220v portion of the device and just run the light off 110v. If you really want to ignore the warnings, I suppose you could get the schematic and determine if the "light" is in any way separable from the "heat". I would never consider putting a 220v device into my home that did not have the UL label and frankly these Shanghai-made units look like death machines: ELECTRIC FIREPLACE HEATER 220V | FIREPLACE HEATER ![]() That UL-listing means that Underwriters Labs has tested the device and is sure that it will not contribute to something like a fire or electrical shock hazard. The odds of even a skilled electrician making modifications that might render the device unusable or unsafe are quite high, and that is why pretty much any UL-listed device is also going to say "no user serviceable parts inside". I really would recommend against doing this. ![]()
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